THE CHYULU HILLS

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

YOUR GUIDES

ABOUT THE CHYULU HILLS

The Chyulus range runs roughly Northwest-Southeast, midway between Nairobi and Mombasa, on the western side of the main highway. These volcanic hills rise from the surrounding plains at around 1,000m (3,250ft) to a series of rounded peaks and craters, the tallest of which is 2,175m (7,070ft). Some 45 km long and 5 km wide, they are of fairly recent (geological) origin. The Chyulus are thought to have begun to form about the same time as Mt Kilimanjaro, 1 million years ago. The last eruptions, on the southeastern end at the Sheitani lava flow, are dated to about 600 years ago.

The Water and Parks

The Range’s prime importance is as a water collector – all moisture being quickly filtered through the porous volcanic gravel to emerge, many years later, in the fabulous Mzima Springs of Tsavo West National Park, then on to water the city of Mombasa. To protect this service, the southern tip lies inside the Tsavo Park and the eastern side is now conserved as the Chyulu East National Park. The western slopes remain the property of Maasai pastoralists and are divided between two autonomous Group Ranches, Mbirikani to the north and Kuku to the south. There is no permanent water in the hills. This, in a strange way, protects them by discouraging development or any permanent habitation.

The Slopes

The western plains, dotted with patches of whistling thorn, give way to Acacia tortilis woodland, pierced here and there by lava flows that protect a denser forest of Olive, Commiphora and Pistacia from frequent bush fires. Above the flat-topped tortilis woodland, the giraffe’s favourite, a belt of Ozoroa woodland integrates with Combretum and Dombeya, the latter producing cherry blossom-like displays before the November rains. At this altitude, some of the lava flows support dense Cedar forests which are then overlooked by the grass covered slopes, spotted with individual Erythrina trees or islands of forest formed round these fire-proof, corky-stemmed trees. Flowering whilst leafless in the dry hot months before the November rains, their coral red spikes are spectacular against the black ash of the annually burnt slopes.

The Forest

Capping the hills and forming irregular islands and tongues, the evergreen forest is festooned with mosses and catches the mist as it drifts in from the east. Classified ecologically as a ‘young’ forest, it is not as diverse as, say, the forests on Mt Kenya, but the signs of a more established forest are already there. The important medicinal tree, Prunus africana, with slow growing Cassipourea and Chionanthus are already displacing the pioneer mix of Tabernaemontana, Neoboutonia and the huge ephemeral Ficus thonningii fig trees. These figs arch like cathedral vaults over elephant trails that look as if mown and tended with great care. Buffalo and bushbuck use these trails and a few secret pools hold water for a few weeks after rain.

The Wildflowers

The grassland regenerates after the burns and displays a wonderful mix of yellows, blues and pinks following the rains. Crotalaria, Lupinus and Lobelia, the names do little justice to the beauty of these flowers. Thirty-eight different species of orchids have been recorded in the area, both on the ground and clinging to the trees. Lower down on the lava flows, startling splashes of the carmine red Pentas, the purple Vernonia and the pure white of the long tubed Ipomoea lapidosa all add to the incredible plant inventory of over 1000 species, approaching the total for the whole British Isles!

The Butterflies

A moist patch of elephant urine is a dizzy swarm of colour. Large blue-black Swallowtails jossle with the iridescent green Swordtail and butter yellow Sulphurs for a taste of the damp earth. So far about 7% of Kenya’s 870 species have been recorded here, including three sub-taxa that are endemic to the Chyulus. The mist forest on top of the hills is the only place in Kenya to find the spectacular metallic blue Papilio hornimani or Horniman’s Swallowtail as it swoops down from the canopy to investigate a patch of sunlight on the forest floor.

The Birds

Listed as an IBA or an Important Bird Area, the Chyulus are thus rated as being of global biodiversity importance. It makes this grade by virtue of providing shelter for flocks of Abbot’s Starling as they move between Kilimanjaro and the central Highlands. Various endemic races occur here, including Shelley’s Francolin, the White-starred Robin and the Orange Ground Thrush. Regionally threatened birds of prey, Ayre’s Hawk-Eagle, the African Crowned Eagle and the Martial Eagle can be seen here. As more bird experts visit the area, the total species list has grown to nearly 300 or over a quarter of Kenya’s birds.

The Animals

The Chyulu western plains stretch all the way to Amboseli Park and the animals migrate as the grazing and water dictate. As the dry season approaches, more and more are drawn to the patch of sweet grass between Ol Donyo Wuas and the twin hills of El Mau. Herds of wildebeest, zebra, eland, oryx and Grant’s gazelle share the landscape. Giraffe and impala wander through the Acacia tortilis woodland and the elephant come and go according to the water. Rarer mammals such as Wild Dog, aardwolf, Patas monkeys and the tiny gerbils have all been recorded here, helping to make the total count of 68 different mammal species found around the Chyulus. Some are nocturnal and can only be viewed on a night drive by spotlight. Others, such as the shy gerenuk, are easy to find if you know where to look............

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